Best Practices All Air Conditioning Companies Should Follow

What best practices does your company follow during my installation?

This single question posed to AC contractors can reveal a lot on how the company performs their installations.  You can trust and like your sales rep but if they don’t know or you get a blank stare as a initial response, you’re better off finding a contractor who is a little less polished but knows their installation crews.  In Phoenix your air conditioner replacement is the most important day of its life and you want to carefully screen any AC contractor that gives you replacement costs.

Experienced air conditioning contractors are good because they know where the hiccups occur during an air conditioner install and how to avoid them and they know what the most common call backs are and how to avoid them. Most of the time doing the right thing requires a little extra effort on their part during the AC install. For most AC contractors this is not the standard way of doing their installs and just like learning how to swing a golf club the correct way verses the easy way, it takes them out of their comfort zone and most would rather just skip doing the extra effort verses spending a little more time, effort and materials to do it right. 

You definitely want to hear an air conditioning contractor tell you they do the following:

1. Charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant after installation. This is not factory settings as every system comes with refrigerant already charged it. Many contractors just leave the factory charge and do not bother adding any more or measuring to find out how much more is needed and this is a big problem. If the distance from your outside condenser to the inside air handler is more than 15 feet, your AC contractor should be adding more refrigerant as the manufacturers only add enough refrigerant for 15 feet of refrigerant line.

2. Size the unit according to what your home needs, not based on the square footage of the house alone. This requires a Manual J calculation on the house so you should see your contractor measuring your windows and actually going in your attic to measure the insulation. 

3. For package roof units, you want a side by side elbow, not a down draft and not a over-under aka twist elbow. This is a major no no that most AC contractors are guilty of not following. Down draft and over-under elbows are cheaper and easier to install and require less labor and materials but are NOT best for your energy bills, comfort and the life of your system. If your AC contractor is really stuck in their ways or really lazy, they will make up excuses on why down draft and over-under elbows are OK to install, they may even believe what they are saying is true but hold firm in your affirmation that you want a side by side elbow. 

4. They install supply and return plenums. A plenum is a transition between the ductwork and the unit. If your furnace or air handler is in the attic like most are in Phoenix, the plenum is likely a sheet metal box that has flex duct connecting into it and the other side is attached to the furnace. If your furnace or air handler is in the garage or closet, the return plenum is the framed box that it sits on and the supply plenum is the sheet metal on top. Plenums are important for proper airflow, allowing the unit to breath and mix air in the box before it hits the evaporator coils. They are not always included in the cost of an AC but should be. It is extra work to install them but every home should have them.

5. There are several other must-haves when requesting specifics during air conditioner bids but the list above are the basics to start you on the right foot. I would make sure all these things were done on my own home and you should too.  For a free quote on an air conditioner replacement cost and a list of our best practices call Green ID at (602) 926-1650 to speak with our comfort consultants.

Why should you move your washer and dryer to the garage or outside. Helping APS and SRP customers save energy.

If you are like me, your garage is hard pressed for some extra space.  With all my kid’s stuff, holiday decorations, extra boxes and camping gear our storage shelves are packed… but here is a good reason why it’s worth the effort to create some space and relocate your dryer to the garage.

Dryers are work against your AC and furnaces because they exhaust your conditioned air every time they are run.  Next time you take out the garage, take a look up and at your walls and you will see your dryer exhaust vent.  Remember that great smell of doing laundry?  That’s from your dryer exhaust fan.  They are one of the highest exhausting appliances you have depending on how big your kitchen exhaust fan is.  Dryer will pull anywhere from 100 CFM on the low side to 230 CFM on the high side.  This can be potentially a health and safety hazard if you have an attached garage or gas appliances for potential backdraft of carbon monoxide and something your energy auditor will inspect.

An air conditioner is typically sized for 400 sq ft per ton.  That means if you have a 1600 sq ft home, your AC should be around 4 tons.  However, when the dryer is running, it is undermining your AC system by almost half a ton.  So that 4 ton unit actually becomes a 3.5 ton unit with the dryer running.
Dryers typically run off of 240 volts and have a special outlet dedicated just to the dryer.  It is best to hire a qualified electrician to add the proper voltage to the garage or outside.
For gas models, be sure the gas line is shut off when you disconnect the dryer and talk to your plumber about tapping into your barbeque gas line for the dryer or water heater line in the garage.
Here are some DIY steps to help you take the leap and the dryer.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2377893_install-dryer-receptacle.html

http://electrical.about.com/od/appliances/ss/4wireto3wiredryercord.html

I should also note that not using your dryer at all and buying a clothes line or drying rack will save you even more money and a few hours in the desert sun will dry your clothes without fading them.
The average family washes about 400 loads per year and 2.3 kWh/load.  That equates to $92 a year for laundry, not including the air conditioning lost from the exhaust vent.
To find how much energy dryers use, check out the link below.

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html

If you have to run your dryer more than once, read our previous blog on how to troubleshoot it.
http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/1/post/2011/11/help-i-have-to-run-my-clothes-dryer-at-least-twice-to-my-clothes-dry-a-story-from-a-srp-energy-audit.html

You can also calculate your energy savings by switching to an Energy Star appliance by downloading this cool calculator.

High efficiency Air Conditioners Do Not Reduce Utility Bills Alone!

A high efficiency heating and cooling system does not end with the unit itself.  This is especially true in Phoenix, where most of the ductwork is located in attic space where temperatures can reach 140+ in the summer.  A high SEER AC unit is definitely an improvement when replacing older units, but that air needs to be carried through the ductwork distribution system to keep you comfortable in the winter and summer. 

If the air conditioning contractors cut corners on the ductwork, then the entire efficiency of a new unit is greatly reduced.  In Phoenix, homes built after 1980 used flex ductwork as the preferred means of air distribution.  Flex ductwork is good because it is easy to install, required little preparation and can be done by less skilled workers.  On the down side, unless an air conditioning contractor does a proper load and duct design calculation using Manual J and D, a number of problems can arise because of cutting corners.  Problems such as poor airflow, high room pressures, excessive dust and conditioned and heated air being lost to the outside are all too common in existing homes.  Many times if an air conditioning contractor has done work or replaced an AC unit in the past, they really will mess a system up.  I think one of the reasons good home inspectors and energy auditors are so skeptical of HVAC contractors in Phoenix is because we see the outrageous work done and what it is costing the homeowner. 

Duct leakage can mean your heating and cooling system is sucking outside attic air into the unit and heating it in the winter or cooling it during the summer and blowing air into the attic on the supply side.  Both are costly and will decrease the life of the unit.  APS estimates that an average 15% of a home’s existing air is wasted to the outside.  SRP shows similar statistics and both utility companies sponsor home energy audits to check for leakage and offer rebates for sealing the ductwork.  For more information on duct leakage visit:

http://www.aps.com/_files/services/ResFAQ/ductleakage.pdf

http://www.aps.com/main/green/choice/choice_75.html

http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com/videos.html

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_ducts

http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/air--duct-sealing.html

Is There an Alternative to Radiant Barrier?

We have written several articles on what radiant barrier is, does radiant barrier workand why there are radiant barrier scams out there and in this article we will answer the question is there an alternative to radiant barrier?  

The short answer is, YES!  We first strongly suggest that you get an APS energy audit orSRP energy audit to identify and prioritize the best cost-saving upgrades for your home. The APS energy audit is great because energy auditors cannot make the same recommendations for each house (like a radiant barrier company does) and their recommendations are based on their findings of your home’s audit.  Yes, Phoenix does get very hot in the summer, and yes, if you stand under a box with a 100 degree light shining down on your you are going to feel hotter without a radiant barrier than with one and those make for very convincing arguments for radiant barriers but on this occasion don’t let yourself rule out common sense and the FACTS about heat gain into your home.

So what are the alternatives to radiant barrier?  That all depends on the price, assuming you have a quote in your hand for radiant barrier find your estimated cost savings by using our radiant barrier calculator.

Let’s say your radiant barrier costs around $2,500 by itself and from our calculator your savings is going to be $75 a year (do not be fooled into thinking the radiant barrier is going to save more than $200 a year if you live in a home less than 5,000 sq ft).  So if you really are against getting a home energy audit or have a tight home and duct work system, I would recommend a solar hot water heater.  Unlike radiant barriers, there are great APS and SRP rebates available plus state and federal tax incentives that make the cost of a solar water heater equal to a $2,500 radiant barrier!  With a solar hot water heater, your annual savings are in the hundreds of dollars since water heating is usually the second biggest energy user after the heat pump.  Radiant barriers can gather dust after a couple years in the attic, rendering them totally ineffective.  Solar water heaters have 10 year manufacturer warranties plus if your water heater is old, it is replaced with a brand new one.  In Phoenix, solar water heaters can supply hot water during most of the year, even during the winter.  Phoenix solar hot water systems can be very cost-effective with quicker paybacks and ROI than radiant barrier and it is our favorite alternative to radiant barriers. 

Green ID offers several types of solar water heaters depending on your existing system and needs.  We offer a free solar hot water assessment of your home to help identify which system is right for your home.  Feel free to give us a call to schedule your free, no obligation assessment today at (602) 684-0462 and we look forward to speaking with you soon.

7 Ways You Can Save On Air Conditioning Replacement for Phoenix residents

Air conditioning in Phoenix accounts for up to 60% of a home’s annual electricity costs.  It is not uncommon for energy bills to double in the summer time in Phoenix even if a homeowner tries to manage his or her energy use by switching to the APS and SRP time of use plan, only doing laundry and running the dishwasher at night, and setting the thermostat up during the day.  Here are seven ways you cans save on air conditioning costs without spending thousands of dollars replacing your AC unit with a high efficiency unit.  


Air Conditioning Saver #1 - Leave your doors open


No, not your exterior doors but your interior doors.  Phoenix air conditioning companies have spread a lot of false information out there about closing your vents and doors.  You want all the interior doors open or at least cracked to help circulate air back to the return.  Here is a quick test you can do to check if your air conditioning costs are higher than they need to be.  With the air conditioning on close a bedroom door and place your hand under the door to check if you can feel air coming out of the door.  If you can feel air escaping, your room pressures are likely to be unbalanced every time the door is closed.  Have an APS Home EnergyAuditor or SRP Home Energy Auditor do a home performance assessment of your home to actually measure the pressure in each room to determine if correction is needed. 


What if you have teenagers or relatives are staying over or you have dogs that you don’t want in a room so you have to keep the door closed.  Your energy auditor will probably recommend a transfer grille or jump duct be installed to relieve the built up room pressure and can go over the options with you.


Air Conditioning Saver #2 - Seal the ductwork.


Between 20% to 30% of an average home in the metro Phoenix area is wasting conditioned air in the summer and heated air in the winter to the attic.  If 60% of your energy bill in the summer is from air conditioning and 20% of that air is not being delivered to the rooms it needs to go to, that can add up to quite a bit of change over 5 years.  HVAC contractors do not seal the ductwork even on a new, high efficiency air conditioner which is like driving a Prius with a hole in the gas tank.  Sealing your HVAC ductwork not only saves money on your heating and cooling bills, it brings less dust in the home too.


Air Conditioning Saver #3 - Air seal your home.


Making sure your exterior doors are well weather-stripped, air sealing any electrical and plumbing penetrations and sealing any recessed canned lights will help keep your conditioned air inside and the outside air outside.  A leaky recessed canned light can increase heating and cooling bills by as much as $5 to $30 per canned light.
Air sealing your home will also help stop the stack effect which causes warm air to rise and cool air to enter the home.  If you have a wood burning chimney, a chimney pillow will help stop heated air from escaping in the winter and save on your winter heating bills.  If you only have some areas of doors that you can see light through there are easy upgrades you can do with filler weather-stripping to fill those voids without replacing your doors.  I know what you are going to say, don’t houses have to breathe?  Yes, you need to have a supply of fresh air into your house for health and safety concerns but it is better to seal your home as tight as possible and bring controlled ventilation in from the outside than live with a leaky home and rely on dirty attic air as your “fresh air” for the house to breathe with.  An APS Energy Auditor or SRP Energy Auditor will calculate theacceptable “breathing rate” of your home and compare that number with the measured “breathing rate” or house leakiness from a blower door test.  


Air Conditioning Saver #4 - Install shade screens in the summer and remove them in the winter


Shade screens help reduce air conditioning costs by blocking up to 90% of the sun’s conductive heat through the windows.  Windows account for more than half of the heat gain into your home just because they are transparent and have almost no insulation value.  If you do replace yourhome’s windows, gas filled, vinyl windows are the way to go.  


Shade screens are typically clipped onto the frame and can be removed during Phoenix’s winter season when we use our heat to get maximum sun exposure to save on heating costs.  APS and SRP also give rebates for shade screens if you don’t already have them.


Air Conditioning Saver #5 - Go up to R-38 insulation in your attic


Is it a big surprise that Phoenix attics can get hot in the summer?  That huge temperature difference between the attic and the house is another cause of rising air conditioning costs.  Against popular thought though, the notion that the quantity of insulation is more important than the quality is completely wrong.  It is more important how the insulation was installed than how much you have and a home energy auditor will be able to properly assess your home and tell you how much higher your air conditioning bills are than they should be.


Air Conditioning Saver #6 - Check if there is a direct connection from your garage to the house.


This is not a commonly talked about cause of high air conditioning costs but I have found this problem in houses in Glendale, Scottsdale and Gilbert.  The garage is another area that can get very hot in the summer and like I said before, temperature differences are the main driver of heat gain into homes.  Using a blower door, your energy auditor will be able to test the house-to-garage connection that occurs above the drywall where you cannot see and estimate the heating and cooling loss occurring from the problem.


Air Conditioning Saver #7 - Have your air conditioning unit tuned-up annual by a trusted HVAC contractor. 


I personally know that finding a reliable HVAC contractor can be difficult.  Even though you have a friend in the air conditioning business does not mean they will do a good job.  I have been in too many homes where an AC contractor and friend installed a new unit and probably not purposely, but unfortunately cut way to many corners simply because that’s the way it’s been done for the last 20 years.  After that is done, fixing any of their work is 10 times more difficult.  First, the homeowner doesn’t want to point fingers at their buddy’s work, second the homeowner probably doesn’t know what “correct” looks like.  Like a good handyman, every homeowner should have a good HVAC contractor.


Those are the 7 ways you can reduce your air conditioning costs dramatically.  For others ways to save money on your utility bills be sure to check out our past articles and get up to speed on APS energy audits and SRP energy audits for your home.

Don’t freak out! What to do if a CFL light bulb breaks.

Many homeowners have been turning to APS and SRP home energy audits as an alternative to calling their local Air Conditioning Company to diagnose issues such as hot uncomfortable rooms and high energy bills.  As part of the APS and SRP energy audit program, 10 CFL light bulbs are given along with low flow aerators to start saving energy immediately. 

When CFL bulbs first came out there was some scare about absorbing the metal in our skin and the difference between the mercury vaporizing and aerosolizing.  I bet you remember the warnings to never use a vacuum cleaner, broom or pour mercury down the drain.  This is because the mercury will aerosolize in a vacuum cleaner, similar to small water droplets in the air from a hot shower, and become smaller droplets with a much bigger radius of influence than if just left as is.  If you never use a vacuum cleaner the risk of the metal aerosolizing is zero.

 Mercury vaporizing is another way for it to get in the air and potentially cause much more harm.  This risk is negated however, because the vaporization point of mercury only occurs at 674 degrees Fahrenheit!  Since it never gets that hot (even in July in Phoenix, AZ), you don’t have to worry about mercury vaporizing and inhaling the metal.  The main risk of mercury absorption is when a CFL bulb is first dropped and the metal potentially splashes up and hits us.

Here are the EPA’s cleanup instructions in case you do have a mercury spill. 

1.       Use rubber, nitrile or latex gloves

2.       Pick up broken glass with a paper towel and place both items in a labeled zip lock bag

3.    Locate visible mercury beads. Use a squeegee or cardboard to gather mercury beads. Use slow sweeping motions to keep mercury from becoming uncontrollable. Take a flashlight, hold it at a low angle close to the floor in a darkened room and look for additional glistening beads of mercury that may be sticking to the surface or in small cracked areas of the surface. Note: Mercury can move surprising distances on hard-flat surfaces, so be sure to inspect the entire room when "searching."

4.    Use the eyedropper to collect or draw up the mercury beads. Slowly and carefully squeeze mercury onto a damp paper towel. Place the paper towel in a zip lock bag and secure. Make sure to label the bag as directed by your local health or fire department.

5.    After you remove larger beads, put shaving cream on top of small paint brush and gently "dot" the affected area to pick up smaller hard-to-see beads. Alternatively, use duct tape to collect smaller hard-to-see beads. Place the paint brush or duct tape in a zip lock bag and secure. Make sure to label the bag as directed by your local health or fire department.

6.    Place all mercury beads and objects into the trash bag. Secure trash bag and label it as directed by your local health or fire department.

7.    Contact your local health department, municipal waste authority or your local fire department for proper disposal in accordance with local, state and federal laws.

8.    Remember to keep the area well ventilated to the outside (i.e., windows open and fans in exterior windows running) for at least 24 hours after your successful cleanup. Continue to keep pets and children out of cleanup area. If sickness occurs, seek medical attention immediately.

Have more questions? Contact Green ID or AZ Home Energy Audit today!

Reference: http://www.epa.gov/mercury/spills/