SRP Shade Screen Program

Before the SRP home energy audit program, was their long standing shade screen program.  Unlike SRP solar rebates, SRP shade screen rebates have increased over time, to $0.80 a sq ft.  Only south, west and east facing windows will qualify for rebates and screens must be either 80% or 90% sun blockage.  Unfortunately retractable sun screens do not qualify for the rebate nor do shaded windows.  Homeowners should also be aware of their window warranties if new window vinyl windows were installed, often shade screens need to be clipped to the stucco rather than the window frame. 

There are two ways to qualify for the rebates.  The first is to have an SRP energy audit performed on your home for $99.  The home energy audit will pressurize the house to identify air and duct leakage and the auditor will perform visual inspections and make recommendations on the home’s major appliances and energy users, attic and insulation condition and perform a thermal camera imaging of the home.  By performing the energy audit you will qualify for not only shade screen rebates, but also rebates for air sealing, ductwork sealing, and adding more insulation to your attic (if your auditor determines you need these items).  Your auditor will process the rebates on your behalf and perform a post inspection test to ensure the work was done to SRP and Energy Star specifications.

The second way to take advantage of the shade screen rebates is to have a screen company approved by SRP out to estimate and install your windows separately.  There is a separate rebate form, that the installing contractor will sign and leave with the homeowner to mail into SRP.  The SRP shade screen form can be found below.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/pdfx/Shadescreenrebate12.pdf

For more information on the shade screen program see SRP’s link below.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/Shadescreens.aspx

Why should you move your washer and dryer to the garage or outside. Helping APS and SRP customers save energy.

If you are like me, your garage is hard pressed for some extra space.  With all my kid’s stuff, holiday decorations, extra boxes and camping gear our storage shelves are packed… but here is a good reason why it’s worth the effort to create some space and relocate your dryer to the garage.

Dryers are work against your AC and furnaces because they exhaust your conditioned air every time they are run.  Next time you take out the garage, take a look up and at your walls and you will see your dryer exhaust vent.  Remember that great smell of doing laundry?  That’s from your dryer exhaust fan.  They are one of the highest exhausting appliances you have depending on how big your kitchen exhaust fan is.  Dryer will pull anywhere from 100 CFM on the low side to 230 CFM on the high side.  This can be potentially a health and safety hazard if you have an attached garage or gas appliances for potential backdraft of carbon monoxide and something your energy auditor will inspect.

An air conditioner is typically sized for 400 sq ft per ton.  That means if you have a 1600 sq ft home, your AC should be around 4 tons.  However, when the dryer is running, it is undermining your AC system by almost half a ton.  So that 4 ton unit actually becomes a 3.5 ton unit with the dryer running.
Dryers typically run off of 240 volts and have a special outlet dedicated just to the dryer.  It is best to hire a qualified electrician to add the proper voltage to the garage or outside.
For gas models, be sure the gas line is shut off when you disconnect the dryer and talk to your plumber about tapping into your barbeque gas line for the dryer or water heater line in the garage.
Here are some DIY steps to help you take the leap and the dryer.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2377893_install-dryer-receptacle.html

http://electrical.about.com/od/appliances/ss/4wireto3wiredryercord.html

I should also note that not using your dryer at all and buying a clothes line or drying rack will save you even more money and a few hours in the desert sun will dry your clothes without fading them.
The average family washes about 400 loads per year and 2.3 kWh/load.  That equates to $92 a year for laundry, not including the air conditioning lost from the exhaust vent.
To find how much energy dryers use, check out the link below.

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html

If you have to run your dryer more than once, read our previous blog on how to troubleshoot it.
http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/1/post/2011/11/help-i-have-to-run-my-clothes-dryer-at-least-twice-to-my-clothes-dry-a-story-from-a-srp-energy-audit.html

You can also calculate your energy savings by switching to an Energy Star appliance by downloading this cool calculator.

High efficiency Air Conditioners Do Not Reduce Utility Bills Alone!

A high efficiency heating and cooling system does not end with the unit itself.  This is especially true in Phoenix, where most of the ductwork is located in attic space where temperatures can reach 140+ in the summer.  A high SEER AC unit is definitely an improvement when replacing older units, but that air needs to be carried through the ductwork distribution system to keep you comfortable in the winter and summer. 

If the air conditioning contractors cut corners on the ductwork, then the entire efficiency of a new unit is greatly reduced.  In Phoenix, homes built after 1980 used flex ductwork as the preferred means of air distribution.  Flex ductwork is good because it is easy to install, required little preparation and can be done by less skilled workers.  On the down side, unless an air conditioning contractor does a proper load and duct design calculation using Manual J and D, a number of problems can arise because of cutting corners.  Problems such as poor airflow, high room pressures, excessive dust and conditioned and heated air being lost to the outside are all too common in existing homes.  Many times if an air conditioning contractor has done work or replaced an AC unit in the past, they really will mess a system up.  I think one of the reasons good home inspectors and energy auditors are so skeptical of HVAC contractors in Phoenix is because we see the outrageous work done and what it is costing the homeowner. 

Duct leakage can mean your heating and cooling system is sucking outside attic air into the unit and heating it in the winter or cooling it during the summer and blowing air into the attic on the supply side.  Both are costly and will decrease the life of the unit.  APS estimates that an average 15% of a home’s existing air is wasted to the outside.  SRP shows similar statistics and both utility companies sponsor home energy audits to check for leakage and offer rebates for sealing the ductwork.  For more information on duct leakage visit:

http://www.aps.com/_files/services/ResFAQ/ductleakage.pdf

http://www.aps.com/main/green/choice/choice_75.html

http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com/videos.html

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_ducts

http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/air--duct-sealing.html

Is There an Alternative to Radiant Barrier?

We have written several articles on what radiant barrier is, does radiant barrier workand why there are radiant barrier scams out there and in this article we will answer the question is there an alternative to radiant barrier?  

The short answer is, YES!  We first strongly suggest that you get an APS energy audit orSRP energy audit to identify and prioritize the best cost-saving upgrades for your home. The APS energy audit is great because energy auditors cannot make the same recommendations for each house (like a radiant barrier company does) and their recommendations are based on their findings of your home’s audit.  Yes, Phoenix does get very hot in the summer, and yes, if you stand under a box with a 100 degree light shining down on your you are going to feel hotter without a radiant barrier than with one and those make for very convincing arguments for radiant barriers but on this occasion don’t let yourself rule out common sense and the FACTS about heat gain into your home.

So what are the alternatives to radiant barrier?  That all depends on the price, assuming you have a quote in your hand for radiant barrier find your estimated cost savings by using our radiant barrier calculator.

Let’s say your radiant barrier costs around $2,500 by itself and from our calculator your savings is going to be $75 a year (do not be fooled into thinking the radiant barrier is going to save more than $200 a year if you live in a home less than 5,000 sq ft).  So if you really are against getting a home energy audit or have a tight home and duct work system, I would recommend a solar hot water heater.  Unlike radiant barriers, there are great APS and SRP rebates available plus state and federal tax incentives that make the cost of a solar water heater equal to a $2,500 radiant barrier!  With a solar hot water heater, your annual savings are in the hundreds of dollars since water heating is usually the second biggest energy user after the heat pump.  Radiant barriers can gather dust after a couple years in the attic, rendering them totally ineffective.  Solar water heaters have 10 year manufacturer warranties plus if your water heater is old, it is replaced with a brand new one.  In Phoenix, solar water heaters can supply hot water during most of the year, even during the winter.  Phoenix solar hot water systems can be very cost-effective with quicker paybacks and ROI than radiant barrier and it is our favorite alternative to radiant barriers. 

Green ID offers several types of solar water heaters depending on your existing system and needs.  We offer a free solar hot water assessment of your home to help identify which system is right for your home.  Feel free to give us a call to schedule your free, no obligation assessment today at (602) 684-0462 and we look forward to speaking with you soon.

Does Radiant Barrier Work or is it a Scam?

We have been getting lots of questions regarding radiant barrier products.  Radiant barriers seem to make sense to reduce attic temperatures in the summer. You may have seen the home show demonstrations where one side of a mock attic has a high pressure sodium lamp heating one attic with radiant barrier, and one attic without radiant barrier.  These are very convincing demonstrations that you can actually feel or see the temperature differences.  So does a foil radiant barrier product work?

Let me give you a background of where we are coming from as a US EPA Home Performance with Energy Star energy auditor and contractor.  We use a science based approach to reduce your energy bills and make your home more comfortable.  That means our recommendations are based on a comprehensive energy audit using a blower door, thermal camera, energy modeling and heat transfer principals… not on a PowerPoint Presentation someone developed who probably is not an energy auditor.  We have performed hundreds of APS energy audits and SRP energy audits so we have some experience under our belt and seen the benefits and a home that performs well, and the broken promises that are not only costly but bring down companies that do quality work.  So let’s get back to your question.

Here are the facts - 

1.       In Phoenix, with 360 days of sun a year, in a house with minimal insulationyour home is only getting a maximum of 20% heat gain from the attic.  We have written about the importance of your insulation being installed correctly in a previous post.  The majority of your heat gain is through the windows.

2.       Using the most outrageous radiant barrier savings claims of a 30% cost savings onyour heating and cooling bill (sometimes even the sales rep gets confused and says it’s 30% of your total bills), let’s do the math.  I’ve provided a radiant barrier savings calculator you can use to get accurate estimates on your savings below, just enter in your highest summer electric bill.  Let’s say that’s $300 and 50% of that is from cooling.  So that means you are spending $150 on cooling for, let’s be generous and say May, June, July, August, September (5 months).  $150 x 5 months = $750 on cooling (overestimated).  Then we’ll find how much of your cooling bills is from the attic (20% from #1 above) by taking $750 x 20% = $150.  Now take 30% of $150 = $45.  That’s your annual savings from radiant barrier, $45! 


3.       If you are spending $2,000 on a radiant barrier to save only $45 a year, there are much better ways to save money on your bills!  One would be to install a solar hot water or even solar electric system for a much quicker payment and ROI.  That is why we will never recommend a radiant barrier product without tacking the big items found in a home energy audit first.

We hope that helps and feel free to leave comments below or like us on Facebook for a free Energy Savings Guidebook to learn how you can start saving today.

Help! I have to run my clothes dryer at least twice to dry my clothes – a story from a SRP energy audit

During my APS energy audits and SRP energy audits I occasionally run across a home that has high utility bills but as I am going through my inspection of the air leakage, duct leakage, insulation, room pressures, HVAC system and ductwork there is not a huge problem identified.  In one SRP home in Gilbert, I fell back on the homes motors, pumps and appliances and started exploring other options to pinpoint the cause.  During this home’s SRP energy audit the homeowner informed me that she was running the dryer three to four times just to dry a load of laundry.  It can be frustrating when it takes longer to dry your clothes than it does to wash them, especially if you have a couple loads of laundry to do.  I know what that’s like, having bought a 1995 home in Phoenix with all original appliances.  I hated having to run my dryer 3 or 4 times just to get my clothes dry!  If you are in the same situation or you may even have a new washer and dryer set – before you go out to buy a brand new dryer here is a quick tip I found can save you literally hundreds a year on drying costs. 

Your dryer is actually the second biggest energy using appliance after the refrigerator.  Plus if you are having to run the dryer twice or more to get your clothes dry then it is using even more energy.  The washer actually doesn't use that much energy, the costs for the washer come in when it needs to use hot water (try buying cold water detergent and seeing how your clothes come out).  Your dryer vents can be anywhere from a couple inches to 20 feet of ducting to get to the outside.  All that ducting collects lint inside and could clog the vent and decrease the efficiency of the dryer.  By cleaning dryer vents at least once a year you will increase the efficiency of the dryer and help prevent the risk of fire.  A good way to clean the dry vent is to use a shop vac or leaf blower and suck all the lint outside.  You want to be sure to snake the whole system to prevent a buildup.

In this case the SRP energy audit recommendations was mostly around the home’s pool pump run time, recirculation pump, 4 combined refrigerators and freezers and the clogged dryer rather than construction defect upgrades.  This homeowner was still able to take advantage of the SRP rebates available for the variable speed pool pump and the refrigeration recycling program as well as the duct sealing rebates.

Air Leakage Around Recessed Canned Lights

If you have had an APS energy audit or SRP energy audit performed on your home the auditor probably showed you the blower door readings or thermal images of your canned lights.  These are notoriously leaky and if a smoke pen is held up to the light, you can see the smoke gets easily sucked right up into the attic through recessed light.  If your home has more than 10 of these recessed lights, it can be a significant source of air leakage in your home.  The average home wastes about $5 to $30 per year per recessed light so it is an important cost savings consideration and health and safety concern if moisture escapes into the attic as well. Here is a little background on these lights and what you can do to stop excess air leakage in your home.

Recessed lights are typically installed in areas of high traffic areas like kitchens, hallways and family rooms.  Canned lights are either IC rated, insulation contact rated, or non IC rated, which cannot come into contact with insulation.  If additional insulation has ever been added to your home you may want to check that the insulation contractors put some sort of protector around the light before blowing more in.   Typically in homes built before 1995, non IC canned lights were used but I have seen plenty of newer homes with non IC rated canned lights installed.  You can find out if your lights are IC rated by going in the attic and looking at the nameplate of the metal light.  There is usually a label glued on top of the light that says the specifications of the light and it will say, “IC Rated”. 

Recessed lights in a two story home can also contribute to the stack effect if there are enough lights in the ceiling.  The stack effect is when warm air rises and is replaced by cool air entering the home through outside penetrations and duct leakage.  The stack effect and air leakage can be stopped by air sealing the home including the canned lights.  To find more information on how canned lights can contribute to the stack effect in your home check out this article by the Pennsylvania Housing Research Center.

There are several ways you can effectively seal your canned lights by either replacement or retrofit.  Replacement options can be done with air tight LED lights or air tight recessed canned lights.  Both replacements are very effective, the advantages of LEDs are a longer lifespan, are fully dimmable, and use less energy.  Replacements done with air tight recessed lights are also very good.  I recently performed an energy audit on a home built in 2006 that had the new air tight recessed lights and can verify that the leakage of the light is very low.  The reading from the canned light you see on my manometer is 0.9 Pa and a typical canned light measures at 40 Pa, which is a lot of leakage.

The other option is to build energy lids with at least 3-inches of clearance between the light and the box.  The energy lid can be fitted over the canned light and sealed at its edges.  Warning!  Do not use expanding foam to seal a canned light; the foam can drip down into the house and on the trim.  The energy lids can be effective if you have non IC rated recessed lights and need to add more insulation to your attic.  You can view more tips on how reduce your energy bills here.

For a guide on ways to seal up your home check out EnergyStar’s publication on air leakage and air sealing your home.

SRP Energy Rebates

SRP has come out with great rebate programs and solidified their commitment to 1) energy retrofits upgrades like duct sealing and insulation, 2) renewable energy products like solar panels for electricity and hot water and finally for 3) switching out old appliances.  Each of these rebate programs are separate entities that sometimes get confused since they are always changing.  For example, SRP solar rebate program has seen better days when solar electricity rebates used to be at $3.00 per watt.  Every couple of months for the last 2 years SRP has dropped their solar rebates until the current amount of $1.45 per watt.  Now the best and most affordable way to get solar is through a solar lease program that significantly buys down the costs of solar panels.

SRP Home Energy Audit Rebates

Now the hot program is SRP’s and APS’s Home Performance With Energy Star.  This is a national Energy Star program to make homes more healthy, comfortable and efficient.  APS and SRP adopted the program to ensure a whole-home approach to reducing energy bills while keeping homeowners safe and with better indoor air quality.  SRP requires a $99 energy audit be performed on a home to diagnose the causes of high energy bills, uncomfortable rooms or excessive dust.  Once the audit is complete a report will be generated using building modeling software that gives cost savings for each upgrade.  The SRP rebates will help pay up to $925 (or more if you have two or more AC units) off the costs of the energy retrofit.  The rebates for the Home Performance With Energy Star program are broken down below.

Duct sealing 75% off up to $175 per unit.  For most homeowners, 20% of their heating and cooling bill is wasted from duct leakage.

Air sealing 75% off up to $250.  Air sealing work can be complex as your auditor must determine

Insulation75% off up to $250

Shade screens $0.80 per sq ft up to $250

SRP has a great visual summary of their rebate program here.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/homecheckup.aspx

http://www.srpnet.com/menu/energy.aspx

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=hpwes_profiles.showSplash

SRP rebates for pool pumps

$200 for variable speed pool pump.  Each pump has to be calibrated to your pool to ensure that it is not over turning your pool.  This upgrade will reduce your bills $200 - $350 per year.  SRP also provides a $75 rebate for pool timers. For more information on SRP Pool Pump and Timer Rebate see the following link.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/poolpump.aspx

SRP Rebates for AC units

Air conditioning systems have become more efficient from federal standards and better technologies.  Surprisingly, SRP does not overlap its duct sealing rebates with its air conditioning rebates.  With every unit we install, we include a whole home duct seal to maximize the high efficiency AC unit with a properly sealed duct system, otherwise it’s like using an umbrella with holes in it.  SRP will help you pay for a higher efficiency AC unit depending on the efficiency ratings.  In the AC efficiency world there is a SEER rating, the seasonal energy efficiency ratio, EER rating, the energy efficiency ratio, and HPSF or .  In Phoenix, the EER is a more important number to pay attention to because of how hot it gets here.  The EER ratio gives a better idea of how an AC will perform under very hot conditions (100 degrees) were the SEER rating gives an idea of performance under milder conditions (89 degrees).  SRP recognizes and awards a higher rebate with higher EERs in their AC rebate program.

SRP also has a quality installation standard similar to the post test done for the home energy audits that has to be met when installing heat pumps and furnaces in the Phoenix area also.  Only SRP qualified AC companies can apply for their rebate for you, but not all of them will perform a duct testing and sealing upgrade.  These rebates and companies are separate from the solar rebates and the home energy audit rebates.  All the SRP approved AC companies are required to do a sizing calculation called the Manual J calculation.  You should ask to see the results from your own home to ensure this was done.  The AC rebate program also includes a check of the refrigerant charge to make sure that the unit is properly charged to manufacture specifications and a check of the air flow.  Below is a list of the AC rebates available from SRP.

SEER 15 with EER 12.0 receives $200 SRP rebate

SEER 16 with EER 12.0 receives $300 SRP rebate

SEER 17 with EER of 12.0 receives $400 SRP rebate

All units must be installed by and SRP approved AC contractor.

All contractors must perform a Manual J calculation to properly size the unit (you should verify this since it is not something a typical contractor will do).

All contractors should properly charge the unit and check airflow.

For more information on SRP AC rebates, check out their link here.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/CoolCash.aspx

SRP Solar Rebates

SRP solar rebates are divided into solar electricity rebates and solar hot water rebates.  Solar electricity for my home was my dream growing up and has proven to be an attractive idea to thousands of homeowners across the Phoenix valley.  SRP perhaps did not realize how attractive solar electricity would be since they have lowered their rebate amount dramatically since its inception.  As of September 2011, SRP solar electricity rebate is at $1.35 per watt.  You can view their current budget and remaining monies available at the link below.

http://www.srpnet.com/environment/earthwise/solar/solarelectric.aspx

SRP Solar Hot Water Rebates

After City and County applications have been approved, SRP does random inspections of the installation.  The solar hot water system must be SRCC rated and have proof onsite.  The first 5 feet of your hot and cold water piping should be insulated to at least R-2.6.  The panels must be un-shaded during the day for the entire year.  The SRP solar water heater rebates are currently at $0.45 per kWh of estimated first year savings (based on the OG-300 ratings), up to 505 off the system’s cost.  The OG-300 rating system is based on the manufacturer’s rating by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation.  Also important to consider for solar hot water systems is the federal tax credit of 30% off the cost and Arizona state tax credit of $1,000, which makes solar hot water much more attractive.  Typical solar hot water rating systems are around 2,890 kWh per year.  An example rebate table is shown below.

Solar Hot Water Cost $5,400

SRP Solar Rebate $1,300

Arizona Tax Credit $1,000

Federal Tax Credit $1,620

Net Cost $1,480

Annual Savings $425

Simple Payback 3 years

Why Are There Radiant Barrier a Scam Claims?

So you are doing your due diligence by researching whether or not radiant barrier is a scam is true.  Radiant barriers installed in existing homes have generated a lot of confusion and controversy.  Often energy saving claims have become grossly bloated from 20% of air conditioning bills to 20% of your entire electricity bill, which is quite different.  Consider this, if heat gain into a home with good insulation is only 15%, how can a radiant barrier reduce the energy bill by a minimum of 25%?  It’s impossible!

A homeowner today should also be aware that there is no one energy saving upgrade that will create a high performing home in terms of comfort, lower air conditioning bills and air quality.  Homeowners should therefore be considerate of alternative recommendations such as duct sealing and air conditioning tune-ups to work in conjunction with a radiant barrier.  The Department of Energy has performed studies and written articles on radiant barrier foil and has concluded it works by reducing attic temperatures and thus reduces heat gain into a home.  What is the problem then?  We will cover that later but first I’d like to go over the different types of radiant barriers on the market.  

Radiant barrier paint, radiant barrier chips and radiant barrier foil are the three types of radiant barriers.  We do not support the installation of radiant barrier chips or radiant barrier paint.  Radiant barrier paint can be diluted in the field with water and will lose its effectiveness when applied.  I’ve seen many houses where the radiant paint looks more like gray paint rather than a reflective paint, which is a sign of dilution.  Radiant barrier paints also has lower performance standards with higher emittance values and lower reflectance values than traditional radiant barrier foils.  Radiant barrier chips are not recommended because installers usually do not install them with enough density to cover the entire surface area of the attic and they can be easily moved.  Besides the radiant barrier paint and chips, we do support the use of radiant barrier foils.

The radiant barrier foil comes either in single or double sided; breathable with ventilation holes or it may not have any ventilation; or has a foam core with some insulation value to it.  By itself, a radiant barrier has no insulation value because it reflects radiant heat from radiation, unlike insulation that slows down the transfer of heat through conduction.  Radiant barriers should also be installed along the roof trusses whenever possible compared to laying along the attic floor.

How Much Heat Comes From The Attic?

Surprisingly, not as much as you would think.  According to APS and SRP studies only 14% - 20% of your utility bill is driven by heat gain from the attic, most of it comes from windows.  I can also validate these findings from my personal experience modeling hundreds of homes in the Phoenix area under the APS energy audit program and SRP energy auditprogram.  On a side note, there is up to $1,000 in APS rebates and SRP rebates available for home energy upgrades.  Visit the APS Energy Audit Program and SRP EnergyAudit Program for more information.

If There Is No Radiant Barrier Scam, Then Why Do Most Fail?

The problem just like a driving a Prius with a hole in the gas tank - is how it is installed and a lack of understanding of what homes it will have an effect on and what homes it will do nothing for.  Most radiant barriers are sold by a sales consultant who is not a certified energy consultant and will sell radiant barriers to every home they go to and overpromise on their performance.  A comprehensive energy audit should be performed with a blower door test and by a BPI Certified auditor to test and identify the real causes and solutions to reduce energy bills and eliminate hot and cold rooms.  In an attic with R-38 insulation, the heat gain into the house is small and is approximately 80% conduction and 20% radiation.  The radiant barrier is going after that 20% of heat gain which may not be the most cost effective option.  There are certain cases where a radiant barrier would be a good choice for your home, but GreenID will not sell or install radiant barriers where it is not needed or better options exist.

A visit to Hoover Dam Can Teach Lessons in Quality Building

This past Fourth of July my family made a stop at the Hoover Dam on route to Las Vegas.  The Hoover Dam is an engineering marvel on a massive scale.  For more than 70 years the damn has stood with almost no structural and decorative changes taken place.  You can still see the surveying notes along the tunnel walls and the original tiling is a work of art.  I felt like a lot more care and craftsmanship went into building the damn and all structures before the days of commodity construction.  Take old sheet metal ductwork for example, only a tin knocker had the knowledge and skill to install a home’s duct system.  These days flex duct is used and can be installed by almost anyone, which has lead to excessive conditioned air wasted to the outside and huge inefficiencies.  How long have these careless installations been doing on?  One indicator is that it is not hard to find an HVAC contractor who has been “doing this for 20 years” and has never sealed a duct system.  I’m not saying we need to go back to the days of painfully slow production and growth, but perhaps a little more common sense and a sense of pride in ones work will go a long way and have positive impacts for generations to come.

Slay your energy vampires

I have been a Phoenix energy auditor for over two years and can remember one of the first things I did when I started was to create a list of all small and large appliances and their average energy usage.  SRP and APS have an extensive list of their own for common appliances and there are several resources online and in text.   I also bought a Kill-a-watt energy monitor to find out exactly how much that coffee machine takes to run.  It turns out to be not much- but over the years I have monitored the energy consumption of a variety of appliances and gadgets I will share in these posts.

If you have a nicely landscaped backyard with a pond, you probably have a small underwater pump to keep the water filtered that may or may not have a timer.  I had a homeowner ask how much energy his pond pump was using without a timer so I hooked my energy monitor to find out.  Two hours later we got the results. 

Obviously the pond pump was small and only cost him $0.12 a day to run 24/7 however there were other factors that motivated him to put the pump on a timer.  The first being that in 1 year he had already replaced the pump two times because of failure.  With a timer, the pump will run less and extend the lifetime.  The second reason being was that his energy usage never broke more than $150 per month all year round.  Since his consumption was so low (he already had a tight, efficient home) his low hanging fruit was not so low anymore and he had to dig a little deeper to find those energy saving opportunities.  I think making the trip to the store to buy a new pump would be motivation enough for me to put it on a timer.

How to Interpret Your APS and SRP Energy Audit Report

To get a $99 APS or SRP energy audit, you can contact APS or SRP directly and they will provide 3 contractors to choose from, or you have a home energy audit done by a BPI Certified contractor of your choice.  Once the initial audit is completed, your auditor will have collected and showed you the biggest areas of waste in your home and then he or she will write up an APS or SRP approved report and software model.  This model is a specific to your home with basic information like square footage, ceiling height and window dimensions and testing data from the initial blower door and duct leakage measurements.  The software takes lots of information about your HVAC system, insulation levels and condition and shading and runs advanced heat load calculations to take your home on what we call an “efficiency test drive.” 

The best part of the software is the cost savings analysis that has been tailored to the Phoenix climate and shows the APS and SRP’s estimated cost savings for each recommendation.  That way you can make a financially based decision on whether to do a whole home retrofit.  The down side is that the report can sometimes be hard to interpret if your auditor is not walking you through it.  I’ll highlight some areas of the report that may be hard to decipher if you are not a BPI Certified energy auditor.  Although this information is specific to the APS and SRP energy audit program, the concepts can be applied to any house.

Air Leakage Results

Page 2 on APS’s Energy Audit report

Page 4 on SRP Energy Audit report

The building shell leakage is measured using the blower door and is the whole home’s leakage measured at 50 Pa.  How do you know if this is a tight home or a very leaky home?  The answer can be found by comparing that number to the Building Air Tightness Limit (aka MVR or minimum ventilation requirement) which is dependent on the size of your home, stories, climate and number of people and pets living in the home.  The MVR tells you how much ventilation is recommended for acceptable indoor air quality according to the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE Standard 62.2-1989).  Under the 1989 Standard, air leakage is an acceptable method of fresh air ventilation.  This can be far from the truth though because this air leakage can come from anywhere, a dirty attic, the garage where gas appliances are located or the outside directly.  Under the new AHSRAE Standard 62.2-2007, air leakage is not an acceptable method of fresh air ventilation and mechanical ventilation is required.  In the building science world we have a saying, “build-it-tight, ventilate-it-right.”  We want to seal your home as tightly as possible then bring in fresh air in a controlled way where we know how much to bring in and we can even pre-cool it with a Recovery Ventilator.  The APS and SRP reports use the old 1989 ASHRAE Standard in their report and if you are not going to bring in controlled ventilation, you should only seal your home as tight as the MVR and no further.  There are several low-end ventilation solutions that are perform well but we’ll save that for another time.

The SRP report does not provide air leakage and insulation details on your current condition.  Your auditor should have discussed his findings with you during the audit.

Insulation

Page 3 on APS Energy Audit report

I’ve written about the importance of installing insulation correctly and how that can trump the amount of insulation you have.  If you proposal includes “air barrier” work, that is an indication of insulation misalignments and it is up to the auditor and crew to decide if the insulation needs to be moved to be aligned with the sheetrock or a new air barrier (ductboard, sheet rock, Tyvek) should be installed.

Page 4 on SRP Energy Audit report

The SRP report does not provide air leakage and insulation details on your current condition.  Your auditor should have discussed his findings with you during the audit.

Duct Leakage

Page 6 on APS Energy Audit report

The last sentence of the page reads, “Your attic duct leakage was determined to be _____.”  To get an idea if that is bad or not, take that duct leakage number and divide it by the whole home air leakage number found in the Air Leakage section (page 2 on APS’s report) to get the percentage of leakage that is being lost just in the ductwork.  Typical percentages are 10% - 20% of the conditioned air is being lost in the ductwork. 

Page 5 on SRP Energy Audit report

The SRP report does not provide the duct leakage numbers, but if you are curious your auditor will provide the number for you.  Then compare that to your total home leakage to get the percentage of air being lost through the ductwork.

Water Heaters and Combustion Appliance Testing

If you have gas appliances your energy auditor performed several combustion safety tests that test for potential safety hazards such as the flue stack or vent blocked, not enough dilution air, backdraft potential, carbon monoxide levels and gas leaks.  The report only lists carbon monoxide levels but you should be aware of what the other tests are and the potential dangers of having combustion appliances.  Carbon monoxide occurs because of incomplete combustion of gas appliances and higher levels of CO can indicate malfunctioning appliances, blocked vent, not enough makeup air for atmospheric appliances or a gas leak.

Make-up Air, Draft Pressure and Spillage

If your furnace is next to the water heater in the garage, the two probably share a common flue stack.  Often times the setup is where the furnace is power vented and the gas water heater draws dilution air passively.  This is inherently dangerous because is the flue stack is blocked and the furnace is running, carbon monoxide now has a place to escape through the gas water heater vent.  Can you say “design flaw”? 

Another potential problem that occurs more commonly in Northern Arizona but Is just as serious is when there is not enough makeup air for the gas appliance.  Today large exhaust fans and dryers draw so much air in that they can compete with an atmospherically vented appliance and potentially; backdrafting carbon monoxide down the flue stack and into the home, blow out pilot lights or cause flame roll-out.  The difference is pressure between the room with the gas appliances (CAZ or combustion appliance zone) and the outside (or inside if testing garage-into-house potential) is the driving force behind potential problems.  Having enough makeup air in the CAZ is important and it Is code to have a garage vented to the outside with 2 grilles but inside closing doors or having dryers in the same room as combustion appliances can be very dangerous.  The solution to closing interior doors is to add a pressure relief vent through a jump duct or transfer grille that allows built-up room pressure to escape. 

The auditor will test spillage, draft pressure, CO levels and room pressures under worst-case conditions to try to make the appliances fail.  These results will tell you if you have a potential problem and carbon monoxide detectors should always be installed 3 – 6 ft off the ground and functioning properly.  Your audit report should be a recommendation for fresh air ventilation through a vent fan or fresh air intake with zero annual savings.

Summary

The APS Recommended Measures table includes:

DHW is short for domestic hot water and includes solar water heating, hybrid water heaters, low flow showerheads and sink aerators (included free for APS and SRP customers), temperature turndown and tank wraps.

HVAC Upgrades is short for heating, ventilation and air conditioning and includes replacing old AC units and furnaces, duct sealing and shade screens.

Attic Insulation, Airsealing includes air barrier work and insulation upgrades.

Miscellaneous includes pool pumps.

The SRP Recommendations table lists measures out individually like pool pumps, air barrier work, duct sealing for each unit and shade screens for each side of the house.

DHW_SYS 1 Invalid can include replacing the water heater with a hybrid water heater or solar water heater.  The quantity column for insulation is in square feet.

Save Energy While on Vacation or Away for the Summer

A good number of the APS and SRP home energy audits I do are for eco-conscience snowbirds.  These residents typically reside in the Phoenix, Surprise and Scottsdale areas during the winter and go back north for the summer months.  Even though homeowners are only here for part of the year, many are still motivated to have the upgrades done because of comfort and air quality problems.  Other homeowners will have efficiency upgrades like duct sealing, air sealing and insulation work done because of the APS and SRP rebate program and to drive down energy costs.  During the homeowner interview, I am always interested to find out what each homeowner does to “summarize” their home.  For Phoenix’s permanent residents, the summer is a time many will take vacation for more temperate climates.  Either way presents opportunities listed below to save energy and money while away.

Tips for “Summerizing” Your Home While on Vacation

-          Turn the water heater off completely at the breaker or shut the gas line off.  At the least, set the dial to vacation mode to minimize stand by losses.

-          Turn the thermostat up to 90 degrees.  This will keep your home cool enough to not damage the structure or your belongings.

-          Fill gallons of water and place several throughout the house to add moisture over time.

-          Unplug energy vampire’s aka electronic devices.  TV’s will use more energy in stand by mode than when turned on.  Prevent wasteful spending by simply unplugging your electronics while away.

-           Keep window shades closed and sun screens on the exterior windows to minimize heat gain during the daytime.

For more tips on “summarizing” your home while away, visit here.

How much will solar save?

The Valley of the Sun doesn’t get any better for solar energy production if you are thinking about installing solar panels on your home.  In fact, southern Arizona is the best location for solar in the nation.  APS, SRP and TEP still provide rebates for solar electricity and producing your own energy to spin your meter backwards is an attractive idea to many homeowners and businesses. But how many solar panels do you need to do so? 

Part of the equation is limited to the amount of panels you can fit on your roof, house orientation and external shading and aesthetics.  A good southern exposure is ideal for solar power, however solar panels can be west-facing or on a west-facing slope and angled towards the south.  Some homeowners want to completely zero out their energy bills for the whole year.  Other homeowners go with smaller systems to zero out just their winter energy bills and a lower summer bill.  To calculate the size of photovoltaic’s you will need to accomplish either goal you are going to need your electricity bills for the past 12 months. 

Once you have that, add all the kWh you used each month for the entire year and divide that by 1.7.  The number you get will be the total system size needed to take your annual usage down to zero (if you divide that number by 1,000, you get kW).  So let’s say after I added all the kWh’s used for the year and came up with 23,480 kWh/year (a large home).  Take 23,480 / 1.7 = 13,812 watts.  So I would need 13.8 kW’s of solar panels to completely zero out my energy bills.  Now I can go with half of that number (7 kW system) to reduce my bills by approximately half also. 

The 1.7 factor is an estimate for only a particular type and efficiency of panel, but it will give you a good idea for starters.  If you are a visual person, feel free to contact me and I can send you a spreadsheet where you can enter in your monthly kWh usage, and a nice graph will visually show you what you are spending now on energy bills, and what they would like with a 5 or 10 kW solar electricity system.

For more information visit http://www.dsireusa.org/ to find current APS/SRP or TEP rebates and federal tax incentives for going solar.  Visit APS’s website here, SRP’s website here and TEP’s website here for more tips and information.  Michael Blue Jay also has a great website and solar calculator here.  You can schedule a free site assessment on your home with Green ID to discuss possible options for solar.  For certain homes, coupling solar with efficiency upgrades will stretch your dollar spent 30-40% compared to solar alone.

Save energy while you cook – energy saving tips in the kitchen

Kitchen appliances can account for up to 15% of your home energy usage and how you choose to cook will impact your energy bill.  By following some energy savings tips, you can reduce your bills and here's how.

There is more than one way to skin a cat:

If you took an inventory of all the appliances you use to cook with the list might look something like this: oven, stovetop, slow cooker or crockpot, microwave and toaster oven.

As you can already guess, each of these appliances uses a different amount of energy but what is not so obvious is how much energy each one uses.  When you can choose between making a baked potato in the oven or in the microwave, which one uses less energy?  How about cooking a soup or stew over the stovetop, or using the slowcooker?  Meatloaf in the oven or toaster oven?   Just like if you lived in a smaller house, it would take less time to cool the inside of the home with the same sized AC unit than if you lived in a larger house; it takes less energy to heat a smaller space than a larger one.  So what would use less energy if you could put that meatloaf in a toaster oven compared to the conventional oven?  How much less?  You would be cutting your energy use by more than half! (and reducing the temperature in the kitchen as well).

Of course, each appliance is “specialized” to cook certain foods but when you can choose, I encourage you to do so.  Below is a table showing the energy costs of various cooking methods.

Other energy saving tips in the kitchen include:

-          When using the electric stovetops it is important to match the pan size to the element size, otherwise you will be wasting almost half the heat produced from the element.-          The ideal pan also has a concave bottom to maximize the conduction in the pan.
-          A pressure cooker will also cook stovetop items faster and with less energy because the built-up pressure drops the boiling point of water thus cooking the food faster.
-          Cleaning your appliances increases their efficiency.
-          Avoid peeking into the oven while baking.
-          Double portions when using the oven to save energy on cooking.
-          Remove foil on the bottom of ovens to improve air circulation.