The Most Common Home Efficiency Recommendations That Energy Auditors Give in Phoenix

All houses are different, but throughout the valley there are similar construction techniques and practices that are used on the majority of homes. These locally frequent practices could be the cause of your high energy bills, temperature differences within rooms, and poor indoor air quality.  Through many years of experience, the energy auditors at Green ID have found that fixing these construction flaws can improve your quality of life through lower utility bills, better air quality, and consistent air temperature from room to room.

We will go into detail about what our auditors have found to be the most common home efficiency recommendations around Phoenix.

1. Seal the ducts. SRP estimates that the typical Phoenix home loses 20% of its air-conditioned air through faulty ducts. Some installers will take shortcuts when it comes the dealing duct leaks but ENERGY STAR tells us that a duct system that is properly sealed can save up to 25% of heating and air conditioning costs.

2. Air-seal the house. Chances are, when your house was built, the builder ran wires and plumbing plates through holes in the wall that are much bigger than the wires themselves. That extra space around the wires can let your expensive, air-conditioned indoor air leak outside—and invite hot, summer air inside. This leads to heat gain quickly.

3. Add insulation or fix improperly placed insulation. In hot climates, having a well-insulated attic is crucial. This means insulation should have an “R” value (efficiency rating) of at least 30 or higher. Some homes in Arizona don’t have any attic insulation at all or have attics with insulation where it’s improperly installed.

4. Shade your windows. Windows are one of the things that are most to blame for heat entering your home. Help keep this heat out by closing curtains on the sunny side of your home or adding shade screens to your windows. According to the Electric League of Arizona, shade screens can reduce heat from the sun by about 50%.

5. Upgrade lights and appliances. Incandescent light bulbs add heat to your home and use far more electricity. Swapping them out for CFLs or LEDs can significantly reduce your energy use and has one of the fastest payback times of any energy improvement you can make.

​Get a home energy audit to get an in depth view of how your home is using energy. Homeowners won’t know which energy improvement projects are the most cost-effective if they don’t know how well or poorly their home uses energy. Home energy audits help pinpoint energy leaks and malfunctioning systems, and provide cost-benefit analyses for various energy-saving fixes. This service can find up to 35% in energy bill savings.

Home energy saving tips with a water heater timer

Lower your energy bills with a water heater timer. APS utility rates double during peak hours in the summer. SRP energy rates almost double during peak summer hours. This water heater timer shown by energy auditor David Byrnes of Green ID can turn off during peak hours, saving valuable kWhs. In Phoenix, it's impossible to get cold water during the summer anyways so why waste energy with your water heater. Save money and live happy with Green ID.

Why should you move your washer and dryer to the garage or outside. Helping APS and SRP customers save energy.

If you are like me, your garage is hard pressed for some extra space.  With all my kid’s stuff, holiday decorations, extra boxes and camping gear our storage shelves are packed… but here is a good reason why it’s worth the effort to create some space and relocate your dryer to the garage.

Dryers are work against your AC and furnaces because they exhaust your conditioned air every time they are run.  Next time you take out the garage, take a look up and at your walls and you will see your dryer exhaust vent.  Remember that great smell of doing laundry?  That’s from your dryer exhaust fan.  They are one of the highest exhausting appliances you have depending on how big your kitchen exhaust fan is.  Dryer will pull anywhere from 100 CFM on the low side to 230 CFM on the high side.  This can be potentially a health and safety hazard if you have an attached garage or gas appliances for potential backdraft of carbon monoxide and something your energy auditor will inspect.

An air conditioner is typically sized for 400 sq ft per ton.  That means if you have a 1600 sq ft home, your AC should be around 4 tons.  However, when the dryer is running, it is undermining your AC system by almost half a ton.  So that 4 ton unit actually becomes a 3.5 ton unit with the dryer running.
Dryers typically run off of 240 volts and have a special outlet dedicated just to the dryer.  It is best to hire a qualified electrician to add the proper voltage to the garage or outside.
For gas models, be sure the gas line is shut off when you disconnect the dryer and talk to your plumber about tapping into your barbeque gas line for the dryer or water heater line in the garage.
Here are some DIY steps to help you take the leap and the dryer.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2377893_install-dryer-receptacle.html

http://electrical.about.com/od/appliances/ss/4wireto3wiredryercord.html

I should also note that not using your dryer at all and buying a clothes line or drying rack will save you even more money and a few hours in the desert sun will dry your clothes without fading them.
The average family washes about 400 loads per year and 2.3 kWh/load.  That equates to $92 a year for laundry, not including the air conditioning lost from the exhaust vent.
To find how much energy dryers use, check out the link below.

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html

If you have to run your dryer more than once, read our previous blog on how to troubleshoot it.
http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/1/post/2011/11/help-i-have-to-run-my-clothes-dryer-at-least-twice-to-my-clothes-dry-a-story-from-a-srp-energy-audit.html

You can also calculate your energy savings by switching to an Energy Star appliance by downloading this cool calculator.

An Energy Auditors Top Efficiency Recommendations for Homes in Phoenix

While no two houses are the same, Phoenix’s housing stock does have similar construction traits and installation practices that are often the cause of high energy bills, temperature differences within rooms and poor indoor air quality.  In this blog series I would like to highlight some of the most common construction defects I find and what you can do to really transform your home for a better quality of life through lower utility bills, better air quality and even better sound-proofing.

Before we explore the wonderful world of your attic and we need to get into the mind-frame of looking at your house as one system made up of interdependent parts.  So your air conditioning and heating system is no longer a separate system that only affects your comfort and how warm you stay in the winter but it can also affect your health and safety.  That way builders typically build houses was that the framer would erect the frame of the house, then the HVAC, plumbing and electrical trades would come in and do their separate trades  etc – and none of these groups would really talk with each other… and that’s were we get these inefficiencies from.  Sometimes inefficiencies are from just laziness where an insulation contractor just laid fiberglass batt insulation on top of the attic studs because the drywall crew did not want to hit any staples when laying their drywall… opps.  There are a number of reasons why homeowners are paying too much for their utility bills or experience different temperatures in their homes and that’s what energy auditors do, identify those deficiencies and make recommendations on how they can be fixed. 

This series is going to be broken up into chewable sections and peppered with energy saving tips and self-checks.  Each recommendation will detail the good and bad affects it can have on your home using the house-as-a-system approach and what you need to be aware of before deciding to work on your home.  We will go into detail about duct leakage and sealing, insulation performance, your home’s heat gain, how a 2-story home differs from a single story home, water heating and many more topics so stay tuned.

Help! I have to run my clothes dryer at least twice to dry my clothes – a story from a SRP energy audit

During my APS energy audits and SRP energy audits I occasionally run across a home that has high utility bills but as I am going through my inspection of the air leakage, duct leakage, insulation, room pressures, HVAC system and ductwork there is not a huge problem identified.  In one SRP home in Gilbert, I fell back on the homes motors, pumps and appliances and started exploring other options to pinpoint the cause.  During this home’s SRP energy audit the homeowner informed me that she was running the dryer three to four times just to dry a load of laundry.  It can be frustrating when it takes longer to dry your clothes than it does to wash them, especially if you have a couple loads of laundry to do.  I know what that’s like, having bought a 1995 home in Phoenix with all original appliances.  I hated having to run my dryer 3 or 4 times just to get my clothes dry!  If you are in the same situation or you may even have a new washer and dryer set – before you go out to buy a brand new dryer here is a quick tip I found can save you literally hundreds a year on drying costs. 

Your dryer is actually the second biggest energy using appliance after the refrigerator.  Plus if you are having to run the dryer twice or more to get your clothes dry then it is using even more energy.  The washer actually doesn't use that much energy, the costs for the washer come in when it needs to use hot water (try buying cold water detergent and seeing how your clothes come out).  Your dryer vents can be anywhere from a couple inches to 20 feet of ducting to get to the outside.  All that ducting collects lint inside and could clog the vent and decrease the efficiency of the dryer.  By cleaning dryer vents at least once a year you will increase the efficiency of the dryer and help prevent the risk of fire.  A good way to clean the dry vent is to use a shop vac or leaf blower and suck all the lint outside.  You want to be sure to snake the whole system to prevent a buildup.

In this case the SRP energy audit recommendations was mostly around the home’s pool pump run time, recirculation pump, 4 combined refrigerators and freezers and the clogged dryer rather than construction defect upgrades.  This homeowner was still able to take advantage of the SRP rebates available for the variable speed pool pump and the refrigeration recycling program as well as the duct sealing rebates.

SRP Energy Rebates

SRP has come out with great rebate programs and solidified their commitment to 1) energy retrofits upgrades like duct sealing and insulation, 2) renewable energy products like solar panels for electricity and hot water and finally for 3) switching out old appliances.  Each of these rebate programs are separate entities that sometimes get confused since they are always changing.  For example, SRP solar rebate program has seen better days when solar electricity rebates used to be at $3.00 per watt.  Every couple of months for the last 2 years SRP has dropped their solar rebates until the current amount of $1.45 per watt.  Now the best and most affordable way to get solar is through a solar lease program that significantly buys down the costs of solar panels.

SRP Home Energy Audit Rebates

Now the hot program is SRP’s and APS’s Home Performance With Energy Star.  This is a national Energy Star program to make homes more healthy, comfortable and efficient.  APS and SRP adopted the program to ensure a whole-home approach to reducing energy bills while keeping homeowners safe and with better indoor air quality.  SRP requires a $99 energy audit be performed on a home to diagnose the causes of high energy bills, uncomfortable rooms or excessive dust.  Once the audit is complete a report will be generated using building modeling software that gives cost savings for each upgrade.  The SRP rebates will help pay up to $925 (or more if you have two or more AC units) off the costs of the energy retrofit.  The rebates for the Home Performance With Energy Star program are broken down below.

Duct sealing 75% off up to $175 per unit.  For most homeowners, 20% of their heating and cooling bill is wasted from duct leakage.

Air sealing 75% off up to $250.  Air sealing work can be complex as your auditor must determine

Insulation75% off up to $250

Shade screens $0.80 per sq ft up to $250

SRP has a great visual summary of their rebate program here.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/homecheckup.aspx

http://www.srpnet.com/menu/energy.aspx

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=hpwes_profiles.showSplash

SRP rebates for pool pumps

$200 for variable speed pool pump.  Each pump has to be calibrated to your pool to ensure that it is not over turning your pool.  This upgrade will reduce your bills $200 - $350 per year.  SRP also provides a $75 rebate for pool timers. For more information on SRP Pool Pump and Timer Rebate see the following link.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/poolpump.aspx

SRP Rebates for AC units

Air conditioning systems have become more efficient from federal standards and better technologies.  Surprisingly, SRP does not overlap its duct sealing rebates with its air conditioning rebates.  With every unit we install, we include a whole home duct seal to maximize the high efficiency AC unit with a properly sealed duct system, otherwise it’s like using an umbrella with holes in it.  SRP will help you pay for a higher efficiency AC unit depending on the efficiency ratings.  In the AC efficiency world there is a SEER rating, the seasonal energy efficiency ratio, EER rating, the energy efficiency ratio, and HPSF or .  In Phoenix, the EER is a more important number to pay attention to because of how hot it gets here.  The EER ratio gives a better idea of how an AC will perform under very hot conditions (100 degrees) were the SEER rating gives an idea of performance under milder conditions (89 degrees).  SRP recognizes and awards a higher rebate with higher EERs in their AC rebate program.

SRP also has a quality installation standard similar to the post test done for the home energy audits that has to be met when installing heat pumps and furnaces in the Phoenix area also.  Only SRP qualified AC companies can apply for their rebate for you, but not all of them will perform a duct testing and sealing upgrade.  These rebates and companies are separate from the solar rebates and the home energy audit rebates.  All the SRP approved AC companies are required to do a sizing calculation called the Manual J calculation.  You should ask to see the results from your own home to ensure this was done.  The AC rebate program also includes a check of the refrigerant charge to make sure that the unit is properly charged to manufacture specifications and a check of the air flow.  Below is a list of the AC rebates available from SRP.

SEER 15 with EER 12.0 receives $200 SRP rebate

SEER 16 with EER 12.0 receives $300 SRP rebate

SEER 17 with EER of 12.0 receives $400 SRP rebate

All units must be installed by and SRP approved AC contractor.

All contractors must perform a Manual J calculation to properly size the unit (you should verify this since it is not something a typical contractor will do).

All contractors should properly charge the unit and check airflow.

For more information on SRP AC rebates, check out their link here.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/powerwise/savewithsrp/CoolCash.aspx

SRP Solar Rebates

SRP solar rebates are divided into solar electricity rebates and solar hot water rebates.  Solar electricity for my home was my dream growing up and has proven to be an attractive idea to thousands of homeowners across the Phoenix valley.  SRP perhaps did not realize how attractive solar electricity would be since they have lowered their rebate amount dramatically since its inception.  As of September 2011, SRP solar electricity rebate is at $1.35 per watt.  You can view their current budget and remaining monies available at the link below.

http://www.srpnet.com/environment/earthwise/solar/solarelectric.aspx

SRP Solar Hot Water Rebates

After City and County applications have been approved, SRP does random inspections of the installation.  The solar hot water system must be SRCC rated and have proof onsite.  The first 5 feet of your hot and cold water piping should be insulated to at least R-2.6.  The panels must be un-shaded during the day for the entire year.  The SRP solar water heater rebates are currently at $0.45 per kWh of estimated first year savings (based on the OG-300 ratings), up to 505 off the system’s cost.  The OG-300 rating system is based on the manufacturer’s rating by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation.  Also important to consider for solar hot water systems is the federal tax credit of 30% off the cost and Arizona state tax credit of $1,000, which makes solar hot water much more attractive.  Typical solar hot water rating systems are around 2,890 kWh per year.  An example rebate table is shown below.

Solar Hot Water Cost $5,400

SRP Solar Rebate $1,300

Arizona Tax Credit $1,000

Federal Tax Credit $1,620

Net Cost $1,480

Annual Savings $425

Simple Payback 3 years

Why Are There Radiant Barrier a Scam Claims?

So you are doing your due diligence by researching whether or not radiant barrier is a scam is true.  Radiant barriers installed in existing homes have generated a lot of confusion and controversy.  Often energy saving claims have become grossly bloated from 20% of air conditioning bills to 20% of your entire electricity bill, which is quite different.  Consider this, if heat gain into a home with good insulation is only 15%, how can a radiant barrier reduce the energy bill by a minimum of 25%?  It’s impossible!

A homeowner today should also be aware that there is no one energy saving upgrade that will create a high performing home in terms of comfort, lower air conditioning bills and air quality.  Homeowners should therefore be considerate of alternative recommendations such as duct sealing and air conditioning tune-ups to work in conjunction with a radiant barrier.  The Department of Energy has performed studies and written articles on radiant barrier foil and has concluded it works by reducing attic temperatures and thus reduces heat gain into a home.  What is the problem then?  We will cover that later but first I’d like to go over the different types of radiant barriers on the market.  

Radiant barrier paint, radiant barrier chips and radiant barrier foil are the three types of radiant barriers.  We do not support the installation of radiant barrier chips or radiant barrier paint.  Radiant barrier paint can be diluted in the field with water and will lose its effectiveness when applied.  I’ve seen many houses where the radiant paint looks more like gray paint rather than a reflective paint, which is a sign of dilution.  Radiant barrier paints also has lower performance standards with higher emittance values and lower reflectance values than traditional radiant barrier foils.  Radiant barrier chips are not recommended because installers usually do not install them with enough density to cover the entire surface area of the attic and they can be easily moved.  Besides the radiant barrier paint and chips, we do support the use of radiant barrier foils.

The radiant barrier foil comes either in single or double sided; breathable with ventilation holes or it may not have any ventilation; or has a foam core with some insulation value to it.  By itself, a radiant barrier has no insulation value because it reflects radiant heat from radiation, unlike insulation that slows down the transfer of heat through conduction.  Radiant barriers should also be installed along the roof trusses whenever possible compared to laying along the attic floor.

How Much Heat Comes From The Attic?

Surprisingly, not as much as you would think.  According to APS and SRP studies only 14% - 20% of your utility bill is driven by heat gain from the attic, most of it comes from windows.  I can also validate these findings from my personal experience modeling hundreds of homes in the Phoenix area under the APS energy audit program and SRP energy auditprogram.  On a side note, there is up to $1,000 in APS rebates and SRP rebates available for home energy upgrades.  Visit the APS Energy Audit Program and SRP EnergyAudit Program for more information.

If There Is No Radiant Barrier Scam, Then Why Do Most Fail?

The problem just like a driving a Prius with a hole in the gas tank - is how it is installed and a lack of understanding of what homes it will have an effect on and what homes it will do nothing for.  Most radiant barriers are sold by a sales consultant who is not a certified energy consultant and will sell radiant barriers to every home they go to and overpromise on their performance.  A comprehensive energy audit should be performed with a blower door test and by a BPI Certified auditor to test and identify the real causes and solutions to reduce energy bills and eliminate hot and cold rooms.  In an attic with R-38 insulation, the heat gain into the house is small and is approximately 80% conduction and 20% radiation.  The radiant barrier is going after that 20% of heat gain which may not be the most cost effective option.  There are certain cases where a radiant barrier would be a good choice for your home, but GreenID will not sell or install radiant barriers where it is not needed or better options exist.

Don’t freak out! What to do if a CFL light bulb breaks.

Many homeowners have been turning to APS and SRP home energy audits as an alternative to calling their local Air Conditioning Company to diagnose issues such as hot uncomfortable rooms and high energy bills.  As part of the APS and SRP energy audit program, 10 CFL light bulbs are given along with low flow aerators to start saving energy immediately. 

When CFL bulbs first came out there was some scare about absorbing the metal in our skin and the difference between the mercury vaporizing and aerosolizing.  I bet you remember the warnings to never use a vacuum cleaner, broom or pour mercury down the drain.  This is because the mercury will aerosolize in a vacuum cleaner, similar to small water droplets in the air from a hot shower, and become smaller droplets with a much bigger radius of influence than if just left as is.  If you never use a vacuum cleaner the risk of the metal aerosolizing is zero.

 Mercury vaporizing is another way for it to get in the air and potentially cause much more harm.  This risk is negated however, because the vaporization point of mercury only occurs at 674 degrees Fahrenheit!  Since it never gets that hot (even in July in Phoenix, AZ), you don’t have to worry about mercury vaporizing and inhaling the metal.  The main risk of mercury absorption is when a CFL bulb is first dropped and the metal potentially splashes up and hits us.

Here are the EPA’s cleanup instructions in case you do have a mercury spill. 

1.       Use rubber, nitrile or latex gloves

2.       Pick up broken glass with a paper towel and place both items in a labeled zip lock bag

3.    Locate visible mercury beads. Use a squeegee or cardboard to gather mercury beads. Use slow sweeping motions to keep mercury from becoming uncontrollable. Take a flashlight, hold it at a low angle close to the floor in a darkened room and look for additional glistening beads of mercury that may be sticking to the surface or in small cracked areas of the surface. Note: Mercury can move surprising distances on hard-flat surfaces, so be sure to inspect the entire room when "searching."

4.    Use the eyedropper to collect or draw up the mercury beads. Slowly and carefully squeeze mercury onto a damp paper towel. Place the paper towel in a zip lock bag and secure. Make sure to label the bag as directed by your local health or fire department.

5.    After you remove larger beads, put shaving cream on top of small paint brush and gently "dot" the affected area to pick up smaller hard-to-see beads. Alternatively, use duct tape to collect smaller hard-to-see beads. Place the paint brush or duct tape in a zip lock bag and secure. Make sure to label the bag as directed by your local health or fire department.

6.    Place all mercury beads and objects into the trash bag. Secure trash bag and label it as directed by your local health or fire department.

7.    Contact your local health department, municipal waste authority or your local fire department for proper disposal in accordance with local, state and federal laws.

8.    Remember to keep the area well ventilated to the outside (i.e., windows open and fans in exterior windows running) for at least 24 hours after your successful cleanup. Continue to keep pets and children out of cleanup area. If sickness occurs, seek medical attention immediately.

Have more questions? Contact Green ID or AZ Home Energy Audit today!

Reference: http://www.epa.gov/mercury/spills/

A visit to Hoover Dam Can Teach Lessons in Quality Building

This past Fourth of July my family made a stop at the Hoover Dam on route to Las Vegas.  The Hoover Dam is an engineering marvel on a massive scale.  For more than 70 years the damn has stood with almost no structural and decorative changes taken place.  You can still see the surveying notes along the tunnel walls and the original tiling is a work of art.  I felt like a lot more care and craftsmanship went into building the damn and all structures before the days of commodity construction.  Take old sheet metal ductwork for example, only a tin knocker had the knowledge and skill to install a home’s duct system.  These days flex duct is used and can be installed by almost anyone, which has lead to excessive conditioned air wasted to the outside and huge inefficiencies.  How long have these careless installations been doing on?  One indicator is that it is not hard to find an HVAC contractor who has been “doing this for 20 years” and has never sealed a duct system.  I’m not saying we need to go back to the days of painfully slow production and growth, but perhaps a little more common sense and a sense of pride in ones work will go a long way and have positive impacts for generations to come.

Slay your energy vampires

I have been a Phoenix energy auditor for over two years and can remember one of the first things I did when I started was to create a list of all small and large appliances and their average energy usage.  SRP and APS have an extensive list of their own for common appliances and there are several resources online and in text.   I also bought a Kill-a-watt energy monitor to find out exactly how much that coffee machine takes to run.  It turns out to be not much- but over the years I have monitored the energy consumption of a variety of appliances and gadgets I will share in these posts.

If you have a nicely landscaped backyard with a pond, you probably have a small underwater pump to keep the water filtered that may or may not have a timer.  I had a homeowner ask how much energy his pond pump was using without a timer so I hooked my energy monitor to find out.  Two hours later we got the results. 

Obviously the pond pump was small and only cost him $0.12 a day to run 24/7 however there were other factors that motivated him to put the pump on a timer.  The first being that in 1 year he had already replaced the pump two times because of failure.  With a timer, the pump will run less and extend the lifetime.  The second reason being was that his energy usage never broke more than $150 per month all year round.  Since his consumption was so low (he already had a tight, efficient home) his low hanging fruit was not so low anymore and he had to dig a little deeper to find those energy saving opportunities.  I think making the trip to the store to buy a new pump would be motivation enough for me to put it on a timer.

How to Interpret Your APS and SRP Energy Audit Report

To get a $99 APS or SRP energy audit, you can contact APS or SRP directly and they will provide 3 contractors to choose from, or you have a home energy audit done by a BPI Certified contractor of your choice.  Once the initial audit is completed, your auditor will have collected and showed you the biggest areas of waste in your home and then he or she will write up an APS or SRP approved report and software model.  This model is a specific to your home with basic information like square footage, ceiling height and window dimensions and testing data from the initial blower door and duct leakage measurements.  The software takes lots of information about your HVAC system, insulation levels and condition and shading and runs advanced heat load calculations to take your home on what we call an “efficiency test drive.” 

The best part of the software is the cost savings analysis that has been tailored to the Phoenix climate and shows the APS and SRP’s estimated cost savings for each recommendation.  That way you can make a financially based decision on whether to do a whole home retrofit.  The down side is that the report can sometimes be hard to interpret if your auditor is not walking you through it.  I’ll highlight some areas of the report that may be hard to decipher if you are not a BPI Certified energy auditor.  Although this information is specific to the APS and SRP energy audit program, the concepts can be applied to any house.

Air Leakage Results

Page 2 on APS’s Energy Audit report

Page 4 on SRP Energy Audit report

The building shell leakage is measured using the blower door and is the whole home’s leakage measured at 50 Pa.  How do you know if this is a tight home or a very leaky home?  The answer can be found by comparing that number to the Building Air Tightness Limit (aka MVR or minimum ventilation requirement) which is dependent on the size of your home, stories, climate and number of people and pets living in the home.  The MVR tells you how much ventilation is recommended for acceptable indoor air quality according to the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE Standard 62.2-1989).  Under the 1989 Standard, air leakage is an acceptable method of fresh air ventilation.  This can be far from the truth though because this air leakage can come from anywhere, a dirty attic, the garage where gas appliances are located or the outside directly.  Under the new AHSRAE Standard 62.2-2007, air leakage is not an acceptable method of fresh air ventilation and mechanical ventilation is required.  In the building science world we have a saying, “build-it-tight, ventilate-it-right.”  We want to seal your home as tightly as possible then bring in fresh air in a controlled way where we know how much to bring in and we can even pre-cool it with a Recovery Ventilator.  The APS and SRP reports use the old 1989 ASHRAE Standard in their report and if you are not going to bring in controlled ventilation, you should only seal your home as tight as the MVR and no further.  There are several low-end ventilation solutions that are perform well but we’ll save that for another time.

The SRP report does not provide air leakage and insulation details on your current condition.  Your auditor should have discussed his findings with you during the audit.

Insulation

Page 3 on APS Energy Audit report

I’ve written about the importance of installing insulation correctly and how that can trump the amount of insulation you have.  If you proposal includes “air barrier” work, that is an indication of insulation misalignments and it is up to the auditor and crew to decide if the insulation needs to be moved to be aligned with the sheetrock or a new air barrier (ductboard, sheet rock, Tyvek) should be installed.

Page 4 on SRP Energy Audit report

The SRP report does not provide air leakage and insulation details on your current condition.  Your auditor should have discussed his findings with you during the audit.

Duct Leakage

Page 6 on APS Energy Audit report

The last sentence of the page reads, “Your attic duct leakage was determined to be _____.”  To get an idea if that is bad or not, take that duct leakage number and divide it by the whole home air leakage number found in the Air Leakage section (page 2 on APS’s report) to get the percentage of leakage that is being lost just in the ductwork.  Typical percentages are 10% - 20% of the conditioned air is being lost in the ductwork. 

Page 5 on SRP Energy Audit report

The SRP report does not provide the duct leakage numbers, but if you are curious your auditor will provide the number for you.  Then compare that to your total home leakage to get the percentage of air being lost through the ductwork.

Water Heaters and Combustion Appliance Testing

If you have gas appliances your energy auditor performed several combustion safety tests that test for potential safety hazards such as the flue stack or vent blocked, not enough dilution air, backdraft potential, carbon monoxide levels and gas leaks.  The report only lists carbon monoxide levels but you should be aware of what the other tests are and the potential dangers of having combustion appliances.  Carbon monoxide occurs because of incomplete combustion of gas appliances and higher levels of CO can indicate malfunctioning appliances, blocked vent, not enough makeup air for atmospheric appliances or a gas leak.

Make-up Air, Draft Pressure and Spillage

If your furnace is next to the water heater in the garage, the two probably share a common flue stack.  Often times the setup is where the furnace is power vented and the gas water heater draws dilution air passively.  This is inherently dangerous because is the flue stack is blocked and the furnace is running, carbon monoxide now has a place to escape through the gas water heater vent.  Can you say “design flaw”? 

Another potential problem that occurs more commonly in Northern Arizona but Is just as serious is when there is not enough makeup air for the gas appliance.  Today large exhaust fans and dryers draw so much air in that they can compete with an atmospherically vented appliance and potentially; backdrafting carbon monoxide down the flue stack and into the home, blow out pilot lights or cause flame roll-out.  The difference is pressure between the room with the gas appliances (CAZ or combustion appliance zone) and the outside (or inside if testing garage-into-house potential) is the driving force behind potential problems.  Having enough makeup air in the CAZ is important and it Is code to have a garage vented to the outside with 2 grilles but inside closing doors or having dryers in the same room as combustion appliances can be very dangerous.  The solution to closing interior doors is to add a pressure relief vent through a jump duct or transfer grille that allows built-up room pressure to escape. 

The auditor will test spillage, draft pressure, CO levels and room pressures under worst-case conditions to try to make the appliances fail.  These results will tell you if you have a potential problem and carbon monoxide detectors should always be installed 3 – 6 ft off the ground and functioning properly.  Your audit report should be a recommendation for fresh air ventilation through a vent fan or fresh air intake with zero annual savings.

Summary

The APS Recommended Measures table includes:

DHW is short for domestic hot water and includes solar water heating, hybrid water heaters, low flow showerheads and sink aerators (included free for APS and SRP customers), temperature turndown and tank wraps.

HVAC Upgrades is short for heating, ventilation and air conditioning and includes replacing old AC units and furnaces, duct sealing and shade screens.

Attic Insulation, Airsealing includes air barrier work and insulation upgrades.

Miscellaneous includes pool pumps.

The SRP Recommendations table lists measures out individually like pool pumps, air barrier work, duct sealing for each unit and shade screens for each side of the house.

DHW_SYS 1 Invalid can include replacing the water heater with a hybrid water heater or solar water heater.  The quantity column for insulation is in square feet.

How to stop home allergens

This spring I was surprised to hear a friend tell me she was glad her spring allergies are back, because that means the winter is over.  Although nobody likes the itchy eyes, sneezing and running noses that some unfortunate people suffer through every year, your allergies can be prevented while in the comfort of your own home.  That is an important distinction that some people never notice and are suffering unnecessarily. 

Cleaning furniture and flooring and keeping windows and doors closed are things everyone should be doing to reduce dust and pollen inside but there may be hidden causes that may be the main culprit in circulating unwanted pollen.  These culprits have most likely been present since the home was built and are also causing you to overpay your utility bill.  They are air and duct leakage and how the framing, drywall and insulation were installed aka the thermal boundary and they may be residing in your home.

The Problem: Our Homes

Small and large holes from any penetrations and duct connections in the house are not only a major source of energy loss but also can have negative health and air quality affects.  Every other week your home may get a good cleaning from dust build-up and the regular activities; now imagine how much more you would have to clean if a 12-inch by 12-inch hole was made directly to the attic and was just left there.  Put a large fan above the hole pushing your attic air into your home, and you’ll get a clear picture of the negative effects of duct and air leakage on an average home in the US.

Duct leakage explained

Duct leakage is common to every home and it is so important because the air handler is putting the distribution system under a lot of pressure, so a hole the size of a penny becomes a hole the size of a basketball under pressure.  On the return side where you change your filter, a negative pressure is sucking in dirty attic air post filter and distributing that throughout the house.  Want to stop indoor allergies; don’t clean your ductwork until you seal your ductwork first.  Do unwanted critters frequent your home?  Try sealing all the holes in the house from wires and plumbing vents to recessed lights.

Insulation performance explained

All attics are dusty but if the insulation is not in contact with the drywall, you can bet your attic will be excessively dusty and that dust will find a way into your home through air and duct leakage.  Insulation is like a blanket, it needs to be touching your body to keep you warm.  If the insulation is not in contact with the drywall (attic floor or kneewalls) as is sometimes the case because of electrical wires walking studs, recessed lighting or changes in the ceiling height that insulation is not working.  The gap between the drywall and the insulation allows air to pass through the insulation, depositing dust and dirt on the insulation.  That’s why you may see a cloud of dust form if you just touch your insulation.  If the insulation was installed directly over an electrical penetration, leaky recessed lights or any gaps between the drywall- that insulation will be darkened with dust deposits.  All the dust in the attic is more likely to enter the home and worsen allergen reactions. 

Both the APS Home Energy Audit program and SRP Home Energy Audit program will assess and measure the condition of a home’s ductwork, air leakage and insulation performance among other tests.  A cost savings analysis is given to each homeowner upon completing the home energy audit but the main benefit that some homeowners will feel is the cleaner indoor air quality, reduced dust and allergens and a more comfortable home.  Learn more energy saving tips here and visit our friends at everyday health to learn many more tips on stopping home allergens here.  We hope you enjoy the beautiful weather out and stay healthy and happy while at home.